There were some exciting times in research in the last month. And when I say "exciting," I really mean "taking a bus back and forth to a village called Cochas Grande trying to find Delia Poma, the gourd carver." After a week of consistently going to the wrong place - as directed by neighbors, relatives and other gourd carvers - I finally got in touch with her and had one of my best interviews of my project. The gourd carvers from Cochas are quite impressive, but in my opinion, Delia is the best. You don't really have to trust me though; she has a notebook at least 2 inches thick with copies of all of her awards. Like most studios in Cochas, mate burilados (or carved gourds) are a family affair. I did not get a lot of time with Delia, but I had an incredible interview and was able to spend a couple hours photographing her, her husband and their daughter-in-law as they worked on gourds preparing for a trip to an exposition in Colombia.
Of course, there is still plenty of work I can do here, but I am happy with what I was able to learn in the time I had. I am working on an online exhibit as part of my project and was able to put together the initial design to show to the craftswomen. In Hualhuas, at my friend Gaby's shop, I set up the computer and turned around to find they had pulled up a couch and brought out some snacks. All of a sudden I was giving a presentation about my project, my intentions and as many excuses for the work in progress as I could find the words for... luckily, it was well received, even though they felt there should be sound (I am not sure if they meant narration or music). I still have a lot of work to do before the final project is done, but I will be sure to post a link.
Quite a few other events happened in my final weeks in Huancayo. I attended a wedding - the groom is the brother of Celso's sister-in-law. They served more cuy (guinea pig), which was not quite as tasty as the dish Maria prepared for me. It was still good, though I was thankful that Gaby got the plate with the head (which she claimed was the best part). People buy huge items for wedding presents - things like beds and armoires. Guests present their gifts by joining the dance line. While the music plays, everyone dances with their gifts in a line that moves towards the stage where the wedding couple sits. One by one, they hand the gifts to the couple (or int he case of large furniture, set it behind the couple), who then give their guests a bottle of beer. When you're not presenting a gift, you are standing in a circle around a case of beer, dancing to the music. I learned this time that if I poured foamy beer into my cup, I could dump out most of it without drinking too much. Needless to say, the wedding ended much better for me than Celso's birthday party.
I finished up my work in time to take a short trip. My trekking plans fell through, due to some washed out roads, so instead I went to Ayacucho. I took the night bus there, and though I knew it went through the mountains, I somehow overlooked the fact that it would involve curvy roads. About 3 hours in, our bus had to wait an hour as another truck was blocking the one lane on this 2-way unpaved "highway." I suppose our driver was worried about the lost time, and so he took off at a fear-inducing speed, rambling down the mountain. I clutched my plastic puke bag and prayed through clenched teeth for the next 5 hours. I made it, and managed to keep my bag empty, thank you very much. I had a nice, if short visit in Ayacucho, spent mostly wandering around the colonial city. I think the highlight was walking on the pedestrian streets knowing with about 80% assurance that I would not get hit by a car. I also happened to be there during an exhibit my Maximo Laura, one of Peru's most famous tapestry weavers. I took the bus ride back during the day so I could see the scenery. On this trip, I was lucky enough to sit next to the craziest lady in Peru who tried to take over my reserved window seat by claiming she had a "plantito." I got some fellow passengers on my side and stood strong on claiming my seat assignment, but it was a somewhat unfriendly trip back to Huancayo. She did thank me for my company though when she left, and I don't think she was being sarcastic.
I had a couple of days in Huancayo when I got back to say goodbye to everyone. I visited a friend of Gaby's, Amelia for lunch this past Friday. We had set up the lunch date a couple weeks prior when I missed meeting with her husband, Kharlis. Amelia had just given birth to their second son a week before, so I was able to meet him. It also happened to be Broyan's, their first son's, nine-year old birthday. I do not quite know how to explain what happened once I got there as I was completely caught off guard- to my surprise, Amelia and Kharlis asked me to be their son's "madrina" or god mother. I asked what that means here, and as far as I know, it involved me getting the baby a gift of clothes (which I still have to do), performing a ceremony with a rose in which I dipped the flower in water and made a cross over the baby's head wishing it good health, and the doozy of responsibility... I had to name the baby! So now, there is a little boy in Hualhuas, Peru with what I think is a lovely name - Joseph Leo, named for my two grandfathers.
My last day in Huancayo was a whirlwind- busy enough to let me forget that I was sad to be leaving. I went with some new fellow-tourist friends to Chupaca for the livestock market. As tempted as I was, I did not buy a cow... And my brothers will be happy to know that they will not be getting a sheep's head for Christmas- it's just too much of a hassle with customs. We then all rushed off to Cochas Grande so I could spread the good word of gourd carving. Delia was out of town still, so I took them to another carver I had met when I first arrived here. He and his wife were so gracious and funny- it was great to visit and spend more time with them. Gourd carving might not sound so exciting, but there is something about the whole experience- taking the bus out there, sitting in the beautiful backyard, talking to the carvers, and watching them carve their stories with a small tool into the side of a dried-out vegetable- that really does make for a downright good time. I then said goodbye to my friends and rushed out to Viques, to say goodbye to Maria and Aurelio. I was about two hours late though from the time I said I would be there and they were not at home. Luckily, after 30 minutes of running all over town and asking everyone where they might be, one woman told me to go the stadium, where their son Jhordan was just finishing up his soccer game (which he won). I said my goodbyes there, then rushed back to Huancayo for dinner with Gaby and Celso. We ate anticuchos- yum! cow hearts- and walked downtown where they were throwing a huge party for me.
I am running out of time here- I need to pack up and get to the airport- so I will just post some pictures now. I know if I pretend that I will finish this when I get home, it will never happen... I will see all you Georgians this next week. And I hope the Oregonians will make it to the big Eugene New Year's Eve bash (Al is working on a killer theme, and Beth is busy with the disco ball piñata). To everyone I don't get to see in person- Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! I think this does it for my blogging for now...
A few photos from my online "exhibit"....
Delia Poma and her husband:
Delia's husband washing off the ash from the gourd, which is used to add the blackened color.
Maria, my teacher in Viques, working on a "faja."
Maria Lazo (at the loom), her mother, Yems (the baby) and Alexis. Maria is Gaby's cousin and weaves for a couple of the family studios in town.
A couple pictures from Ayacucho... where they paint the retablos in the style of these doors...
And there are lots and lots of churches here...
Kharlis, Amelia, Broyan and Joseph Leo (in the bundle).
Me and Joseph Leo, just after I did the naming and health ceremony in their house.
It wasn't just Broyan's birthday- it was the town of Hualhuas' birthday as well. The kids were all dressed up and parading through town in the traditional dresses of various folk dances. I believe this one was for the Santiago dance.
Chupaca's livestock market...
Sorry Santa can't bring home some sheep heads or intestines this year...
Gaby and Celso smiling in front of the stage at my going away party in Huancayo. Some people think they were celebrating Huancayo's soccer win (the city's team won the national title- for the first time ever, and they were complete underdogs...), but we all know the truth.
On Sunday, I went to a school to volunteer with Amy and Christian, some friends I met in Huancayo who live in Lima (Amy is from Indiana, Christian from Peru). They threw a Christmas party for kids in a poor neighborhood in the city. We were divided into groups with the kids. Luckily, Amy and I had a group together... even though they were 10-11 year old rambunctious boys! They were fun, when we weren't chasing them around, and I think they had a good time. They at least got some Paneton (like fruit cake bread- and all the rage at Christmastime here), chocolate milk and presents (the boys all got a soccer ball).
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